If you grew up in the country and split your own logs you can skip this. In this chapter we’ll talk about the four types of wood. Going from smallest to largest, the first is tinder, then kindling, then wet wood, and finally dry wood.

Tinder.
Tinder is lightweight and burns fairly hot for a short period of time. You use it to light larger pieces of dry wood. That’s really the concept of a fire—you start with small stuff that’s thin and ignites easily and at a hot temperature, so that you can then light something a little bigger and then a little bigger, then even bigger. Tinder is the easy-to-light fibrous stuff. It’s not going to burn long. Usually if it’s easy to light and puts out a lot of temperature it’s going to burn pretty quickly.
Tinder is basically a fire starter and comes in a variety of forms. One form is off a log from a long-ago-dead tree. You strip back the bark and you’ll find a fibrous and lightweight layer between the bark and the tree. That layer is easy to light.
Another form is newspaper or fire starters you can buy from the store. You can make your own fire starter with a combination of sawdust and wax, put the mixture in a paper egg crate. There are other ways to make fire starters, just check the Internet. There’s a lot of ways to start a fire.
I will warn you to stay away from leaves as they usually put off a lot of smoke and not a lot of heat, instead you want to look for soft, dry material.

Kindling.
Kindling is broken or dead branches and other forest litter whose diameter starts from the size of your thumb on up. Unfortunately, not all branches around a forest are dry.
If a branch is dead, (i.e., no leaves, no green growth) that tree is no longer able to provide nutrients and water to the limb, so it’s going to be dry. If it’s appropriate where you’re camping, you can snap off a dead branch and use the tips to start your fire.
Squaw wood is where you have dead wood that is up off the ground. For example a fallen limb stuck between two branches, or maybe it’s still attached to the tree and it’s about to break off, or it’s lying across a couple limbs and has broken off. Since it isn’t on the soil, it’ll be drier than branches sitting on grass or dirt. That’s the kindling you are looking for because moisture from the terrain hasn’t been saturating the timber, especially if it hasn’t rained lately. It will tend to be drier than the wood lying directly on the ground. Dry wood makes it easier to build fire.
If you’re out in the western part of the country, humidity is extremely low and it’s not really a big issue. If you’re on the eastern part of the country, or say you’re in the Appalachian Mountains, humidity can make starting a fire tougher because that wood can absorb moisture from the air. A bigger problem is when wood absorbs moisture from the ground. Damp wood is hard to light.
Dry wood versus green wood.
The drier the wood the quicker and the hotter it’s going to burn. Wet timber is harder to ignite and you’ll find it burns longer at a lower temperature. Our tinder lights our kindling, then as the fire builds you’ll use bigger pieces of wood. That kindling may be the squaw wood or branches you know are good and dry.
Check local ordinances.
In some areas you aren’t allowed to pick up dead wood. It depends on the status of the forest you’re in. So collect small pieces of kindling from your backyard before you leave home and bring them with you, maybe in a bucket with a lid to keep it dry. Break them up into a bunch of small pieces and you’ve always got that available.
Make sure there isn’t a fire prohibition in the area.
Sometimes it gets dry in the summer and there will be a prohibition against campfires. When the park, or county, decides there is a chance for forest fires, they may ban campfires. Always check before you leave to go camping.

How to build a fire.
When you start your fire, tinder is going to be underneath very small pieces of wood. One way to think about this is how a tree grows. You have a trunk and branches, and the branches branch into twigs, and eventually you get out to the tip where the buds are. This smallest wood tends to be less than an eighth of an inch in diameter.
If you have a fire starter and you put it underneath an eight inch diameter log, that combination is not going to catch the log on fire. Building this fire is a matter of starting and working through these stages: easy to ignite; very small diameter tinder-type stuff; up to kindling; up to what we’ll call firewood.

Build a fire with tinder at the bottom, then twigs about an eighth of an inch in diameter, then sticks about a quarter of an inch in diameter. The tinder lights the twigs, the twigs light the sticks. As the fire grows you add bigger and bigger fuel, but take it slow or else you’ll snuff the fire out. When you get to where the kindling is the size of your thumb, then you start looking for small pieces of dry wood about two times your thumb.
My point is to slowly build up your fire by increasing the size of the timber. At some point you’ll notice burnt pieces of ember dropping down and creating a bed of coals. This is the stage where if you’ve gone ahead and split some logs into pieces about an inch by an inch square, by whatever the length of the wood was, maybe 16 inches, then you can start putting those dry logs on. This wood is more substantial than the twigs, so they’re going to burn hotter as they catch on fire. At this point you can add bigger logs.
You may also want to consider building a square chimney out of your smaller split wood. Then you can start your fire down in this hollow chimney. This will trap the heat from the tinder and progressively larger pieces of wood and help to protect your incipient stage fire from wind. This approach also warms up the split wood and eventually ignites the larger pieces.
Later in the evening you may want to throw on a big log as a backstop. It will sit there and start to catch on fire. It’s going take a long time to ignite, but when it does, it’s going to burn for a long time, which is awfully nice while enjoying the campfire.
Once you have a bed of coals, you can start introducing some green timber because it burns slowly. The advantage is you’re not going to have to add wood as often. Though your fire will not get as hot, it’ll burn longer. That’s the point in the evening where you’re looking to sit around the campfire. If you’re going to cook something for a long period, sometimes small pieces of green logs will help stabilize the cooking temperature. Keep in mind, if wood is very green, then it won’t burn well and you will have problems keeping your fire burning. Avoid that frustration and enjoy the fire by using dry timber.
Scraps of wood.
Once, when we were camping in Bear Den Campground in North Carolina, right off the Blue Ridge Parkway, I met a cabinetmaker who saved his sawdust and wood scraps in a bucket with a lid. Over time, the bucket full of kindling became bone dry. He used that to build a fire which worked really well. So, if you’re a wood worker, save your scraps. Break them down into small pieces, and use that to start your fire.
Buckets for kindling.
You can obtain free buckets at Walmart or any grocery store from the bakery department. They may have a bucket full of icing they’re working from. A lot of times they’ll give you those buckets and they’ll have lids. Are they waterproof? No. Are they water-resistant? Yeah, for the most part. So, you can probably keep your stuff dry.
Or you can go to Home Depot or Lowes and purchase three-gallon buckets in the paint department for about three dollars. They also sell lids that snap onto the bucket. Home Depot has started carrying Omega Lids with an O-ring which makes it water resistant. Put your woodworking scraps or kindling in this bucket and screw on the lid, now you’ve got dry material to build your fire. Though it will take room up in your vehicle, if you’re planning to build several fires it sure makes life easier. Depending on where you’re camping, you may need to bring in all your wood.
Warnings.
Do not go to bed or walk away from a fire until it’s out. Out means you can put your hand over where the coals were and the area is cool. Fires can re-catch and you can start a forest fire.
Once you start a campfire, you have to tend it. You can’t go away for thirty minutes because something could go wrong. The fire could spread and you start a forest fire. Always watch a fire. Be careful. It’s a great tool. Like any tool, fires deserves respect and a little practice.
Using an accelerant.
Keeping a source of tinder and kindling with you is awfully handy. Another thing you can do is use an accelerant. So, let’s say you have lighter fluid and you want to build a charcoal fire. You can soak your wood in it for maybe ten or fifteen minutes before you light it. If you don’t give it time to soak in, the lighter fluid will sit on the surface and when you ignite it, there’ll be this giant poof of a flame and then it’ll be done and not a lot will catch on fire. Optionally, kerosene or diesel work well.
The challenge is whenever you use an accelerant, you introduce risk. When you light this thing, it’s going to ignite quickly and burn hot. Be careful, you don’t want to burn yourself or start a forest fire. Let’s say you’ve got a bundle of wood about a foot by a foot by a foot and you pour a gallon of white gas on it and you let it soak for an hour. When you light it, it’s going to give you this little mini fireball. That wood is going to burn for hours, you’ll have a hard time putting the fire out. And so, as a result, you want to avoid using an accelerant.
I will admit I’ve had times where I’ve been forced to use an accelerant. Either it was pouring rain or for some reason I was having a hard time keeping the fire started. I’ve used kerosene or white gas, but I will say I’ve had some negative experiences. So, I recommend staying away from an accelerant for camp fires.
For example, if you were to hold the white gas container in one hand while you light the fire, when the lid fell off the white gas container, you would understand the unpleasant experience. Alright, I was seventeen at the time and stupid. Learn from my mistakes and stay away from accelerants. Thankfully it was a small bottle of white gas, one of the ones we used for a backpacking stove. We got in a hurry, wanted the fire to light; threw some white gas on the wood, picked up the lighter, unbeknownst to me gas was on my hands, and there was this little bit of a boom, and it scared me! I dropped the gas container and the next thing I knew fire was everywhere because the white gas ignited. It was bad idea. I learned a valuable lesson.
If you choose to use an accelerant, go easy. Ninety-nine percent of the time you can build a fire successfully with what you have. If you’re in the Appalachian Mountains and it’s been raining for two weeks and the fog is rolling in and everything you have is soaking wet, then you’re going to have to make your own decision. I would encourage you not to use an accelerant, just because of the risk. You know, lighter fluid works fine on charcoal because charcoal absorbs the fluid readily. The wood may or may not absorb the accelerant as readily and so you can have a situation where it’s on the surface of the wood and not absorbed. Be careful.
Exceptions.
With a rocket stove, you’re going to stay with fairly small sticks the whole time, and you won’t need a stick bigger than three-eighths of an inch. That’s the advantage of those; they’re very efficient. If you use a Kelly Kettle, you’re going to use small twigs the whole time. You want to have a big stack of small twigs and just slowly feed the fire. The difference with the rocket stove and the Kelly Kettle is that you get hot water quickly. The downside is they need constant feeding of fuel. The very good thing is that you really don’t need much fuel to heat your water. A small box of small twigs can get you through several pots of coffee or bowls of oatmeal.
With a campfire you get up and add some fuel or branches or a log, every five or ten minutes when you get it going; maybe longer if it’s really going well. But with a rocket stove or a Kelly Kettle , you’re going to feed it constantly. If you walk away, it’ll just go out, because there’s just not a lot of fuel there and not a lot of thermal mass.
More complex fire arrangements.
A Dakota Hole or some rocket stoves rely on the fact that the heat is hottest at the tip of the flame or slightly above the flame, and so you build a fire in a teepee style. There’s a bunch of styles you can use— square or teepee to name a few. You could even use the Swedish fire log approach, which is really cool. You could even use a Swedish fire log approach, which is a little different and unique. Some people out west use Dakota holes. I’ve never built one that way, though it seems kind of cool. We’ve built a half Kiva before on a windy trip. There are a lot of specialized ways, but most of the time you’re sitting around a campfire, and you build a fire inside a little ring of rocks.
Wrap up.
The best way is to use a fire starter. Use tinder. Use kindling. Start small with your fire. Make it bigger. You definitely want to keep in mind that the heat is going to be the hottest above the flame, or at the top of the flame. Successful fires push hot air across the wood.
YouTube has videos on how to build a fire. There’s tons of stuff written about how to build a fire. And so, it’s something you want to figure out, what fire building approach works best for you.
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